Julie's Jacobean Jacket

Jacket from the early 1600s....A quick and dirty 1 month project.

Tuesday, September 12, 2006

Stolen Thunder!

An aptly named post for my little costume spies. ;) So...I know you've already craftily found my kirtle sekrits, but here they are for posterity's sake. Hehe...

I went to constructing my heavily boned (so i don't have to wear a corset) bodice...the boning looks thusly:

bodice structure --This was before I decided I positively hate attaching the straps at the front of the bodice, so I redrafted it to have strap seams on the back of the shoulder blade like I always do....

It took me ages to do the eyelets. After a "doh" moment from beth, I realized I'd been doing them backwards (with the "bar" bit of the buttonhole stitch on the outside instead of the inside for more support). The problem is that I really like the way it looks with the "bar" on the outside, cuz its pretty...my solution? Do two passes, one reinforced on the inner edge, one on the outer. Sure, it takes twice as long, but i'm just that crazy! And Adam made me choose a contrast-y blue thread, cuz he is color smart and I am not. I daresay I like it. Also, I chickened out and did cartridge pleating again. I'm afeared of other pleats, I admit it.


The unhemmed kirtle over the farthingale. Hmmm....and a stolen trogdor shirt. ;)

kirtle front--the straps did not work as I'd planned--they're loose, so they move around a bit (hence the harloty crooked straps in the photo above). But even worse is that the lining and outer fabrics didn't line up and as a result the lining pulls out a bit (luckily its white so it doesn't show much with a shirt/smock). But it shows enough to bother me, so I still need to do a wool guard that folds over into the lining (hopefully a project I can finish this week). I have some scrummy black cashmere/wool for the guards, so at least it should be enjoyable.

kirtle back--I actually like the back much more than the front. Farthingales kick ass.

So, left to do on this: Hem, guards, some gimpy braid may make an appearance, and I'd like to make sleeves for it with my remaining fabric. Fix straps (maybe later?)

Hah, and maybe even some infamous "modesty panels" for under the lacings. ;)


Blogger Laura said...

Ooh! I like :) I'm currently on a Victorian kick, but you make me want to try something different!

9:43 AM  
Blogger Beth said...

Modesty panel-ed!!!

I know what you mean about the bodice lining problem. I was considering self-lining, or at least self-lining the top bit in the future. I sometimes have that issue too, and I tend to pick crazy random stuff for linings.

The kirtle looks really fantastic over the farthingale.

11:35 AM  

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